I’m struggling with how to share our experiences and impressions of Lisbon without sounding like a droning tourist board.
So I’ve kept things as brief as possible with snapshots to illustrate where words fail and a little lesson in Portugese vocabulary thrown in to keep things interesting.
1. StunningVistas
I’m a girl who always appreciates a beautiful view and you cannot go far in this city, which is spread out over seven hills without getting one.
2. The Castelo de São Jorge
St. George’s castle dominates the city on the highest hill. Its oldest parts date from the 6th century and it was the setting for many conflicts involving Romans, Visigoths, Moors Crusaders and Spanish. It is now a peaceful place where peacocks strut under olive trees and pines. We spent a divine afternoon strolling around, enjoying the calm of this ancient site and outstanding views of the city below.
3. Riding the Vintage Elétricos
Lisbon is a modern city and has a great network of buses, subways and trains, but our favorite mode of transportation was riding on the elétricos (trams), up and down the hills, San Francisco style.
4.The Museo do Azueljo
You cannot go anywhere in Portugal without seeing decorative ceramic tiles (azulejos), ornamenting public buildings and private residences alike, both outside and inside (more on this possibly in a future post). This museum displays examples from five centuries and educates the uninitiated to the process. We went there on the strong recommendation of a friend and we were surprised by how interesting we found it. The quilter in me was busy tucking away ideas.
5.The Alfama
Alfama is a village within the city made up of a web of medieval alleys, tiny squares, churches and residences. Walking through the narrow streets is like stepping back in time and you never know what you will find around the next corner: A white-washed house with an lovely garden in front, a wrought-iron balcony with pots of flowers or drying laundry, a stair-case painted by a local artist and of course many businesses and residences decorated with Azuelijos.
6. The Catedral
It was a relief to step off the city’s bustling streets into the oasis of peace and quiet in Lisbon's cathedral built by Portugal's first king in 1150 after the Portugal was liberated from the Moors by the crusaders. . There is something about a cathedral’s soaring columns and vast overhead space that expresses the majesty of God so well. This one was a bit musty, probably due to the current archeological excavations of its once beautiful cloister.
7. Having chá and bolo at the Confeitaria Nacional in the Plaza Rossio.
If you’ve read my last few posts, you know that at some point we almost always stop for a cup of chá (tea) and ‘a little something sweet.’ The bolo (cake) in this famous bakery was nice, but sadly not worth a description. Rossio Square where the bakery/cafe is located is, however. It is at the heart of the city, a lively bustling place and very beautiful thanks to its classic architecture, bubbling fountains and the elegant black and white waved pattern built into its cobblestones.
8. The Igreja de São Roque
This gem of a church tucked away in the Largo Trindade Coelhoa, another lovely white and black cobblestoned square, has a deceptively simple facade for an church with one the most opulent interiors I have ever seen. Of note, one of its chapels is known as the "world's most expensive chapel" and is made with ivory, agate, porphyry, lapis lazulli, gold and silver. It must also be spiritually rich as it was built in Rome and then blessed by the Pope before being shipped to Lisbon in 1747.
9. Dining on local pescado.
Fish restaurants abound in Lisbon, hence one of the reasons for Taka Trois’ nemesis, those infuriating fishing buoys. We put aside our rancor for these pests and enjoyed their ‘bounty’ over several first-rate meals out, but not before checking with the chef if the fish was indeed fresh.
10. Listening to Fado in the Bairrio Alto
The Bairrio Alto is a 16th century working class quarter and a favorite haunt of artists, writers and musicians. The area and its popular Fado Houses comes alive at night. Fado is a type of melancholy folk music, sung by a solo performer usually accompanied by guitarists. We first heard Fado on the streets mournfully sung a capella by an elderly gentleman through a fog horn (!) and we also enjoyed a dinner performance that almost moved us to tears. Mind you, that may have had something to do with the local vinho we were sipping while we listened.
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