When we eventually emerged from the boat after arriving here in Mindelo on Thursday morning, we discovered a colorful seaside city bursting with life and local flavor. Mindelo is the main city on São Vicente, one of 13 volcanic islands (9 of which are habitable) 280 miles/450 kilometers off the coast of Mauritania and Senegal, spread out over an area of 8000 square miles. Despite its evident poverty and serious signs of ‘wear and tear,’ the city is clean and relatively well-maintained and its people are friendly and welcoming. The marina, ferry terminal and quayside commercial complex are all of recent construction and there are new high rises in and around town, but the center of the city has retained its original colonial architectural style.
History buffs may be interested to know that Cap Verde or Cabo Verde as they say here, gained its independence only recently in 1975. Greek and Arab mariners were its first visitors/settlers in the 12th century. The Portuguese arrived in 1460 and moved in for the next 500 years or so until they were kicked out after a lengthy and violent coup d’etat. The stamp of portuguese colonialism is still evident in the official language, infrastructure, architecture, cuisine and some cultural aspects, but there is no doubt that this country is now closer to Africa in lifestyle and culture. Most people speak a local form of créole and live in flat-topped african/pueblo-style abodes on the outskirts of the city.
Since we heard that the island is apparently little more than a hot rock and doesn’t have much to offer outside of the city limits and with a long list of boat chores and preparation to do for the next leg of our journey, we limited our exploration of this island to Mindelo itself. We walked its charming cobblestoned streets with street vendors vying for our attention and a few beggars trailing along behind us, visited the main market, fish market and a local gallery, frequented several of its eating establishments and watering holes and shopped in a variety of stores ranging from a spanking new supermarket to a veritable hole-in-wall where Patrice and Alan found fishing gear. Most shops, even the smallest ones carry an amusingly diverse range of goods which can include just about anything.
Since we heard that the island is apparently little more than a hot rock and doesn’t have much to offer outside of the city limits and with a long list of boat chores and preparation to do for the next leg of our journey, we limited our exploration of this island to Mindelo itself. We walked its charming cobblestoned streets with street vendors vying for our attention and a few beggars trailing along behind us, visited the main market, fish market and a local gallery, frequented several of its eating establishments and watering holes and shopped in a variety of stores ranging from a spanking new supermarket to a veritable hole-in-wall where Patrice and Alan found fishing gear. Most shops, even the smallest ones carry an amusingly diverse range of goods which can include just about anything.
Having heard that neighboring Santo Antão is a ‘must-see’, we took the day off on Saturday and hopped on the morning commuter ferry to explore that island. A throng of shouting taxi drivers vied for our business as soon as we stepped off the boat and we eventually negotiated a tour around the island with ‘Kiki’ who enthusiastically promised to show us all the hot spots. He did not disappoint us, nor did the island. Quite honestly we were simply blown away by its raw natural beauty, its stunningly diverse geography and the quiet charm of its inhabitants. But rather than than listen to me drone on about it, have a look for yourselves at the photos below.
Our original plan was to leave the next day, Sunday, the 13th of January, but as there is a depression in the north Atlantic creating unfavorable swells heading this way, Michel has advised us to wait until Wednesday morning. There are at least 10 boats in the marina here also waiting to go and as there is always comfort in numbers, we are now talking about crossing or at least starting out together---a impromptu mini ARC of sorts.
So we have the unexpected gift of a little more time here. On Sunday, we set out to hike up to the Fortim, the highest point in the city, but on the way we were lured off course by the sound of drums and found ourselves in the midst of a pre-carnival parade. Over a thousand revelers in homemade ‘costumes’ gyrated to the beat of a dozen drums and danced their way down the main thoroughfares--not Trinidad exactly, but equally exuberant.
So we have the unexpected gift of a little more time here. On Sunday, we set out to hike up to the Fortim, the highest point in the city, but on the way we were lured off course by the sound of drums and found ourselves in the midst of a pre-carnival parade. Over a thousand revelers in homemade ‘costumes’ gyrated to the beat of a dozen drums and danced their way down the main thoroughfares--not Trinidad exactly, but equally exuberant.
Today and tomorrow we’ll be scouring the markets and street vendors for fresh produce, preparing a few meals in advance and of course Captain Orléach will be checking the weather on an hourly basis. The excitement is mounting here aboard Taka Trois as we prepare for this final and longest stage of the crossing. I’ll let you know when we go and as before, there will be daily reports on the blog with the statistics of the day. Your continued prayers for our safety and well-being would be much appreciated.
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