The disadvantage of a quick tour of any kind is that it tends to be more about places rather than people. Although the many brief stops we made during our trip down to Guadeloupe from St Martin were both enriching and enjoyable, we sorely missed having enough time to interact with locals and cruisers. The antidote to that was our stay Guadeloupe. To be specific, the visitor’s pontoon in the Marina Bas du Fort in Point à Pitre, Guadeloupe.
I wouldn’t write home about Point à Pitre as the city itself is pitiful and its marina village sadly in need of some serious renovation. However, it was an excellent place to stop to get some of our boat issues sorted and just like pontoon K in Cascais, Portugal (http://www.takadventures.com/1/post/2012/11/life-on-pontoon-k-marina-cascais.html), this one was a lively place full of cruising boats waiting out the weather and preparing for the next journey whether it be it just a short sail to the next port or a full-scale atlantic crossing. Here our some highlights for our stay there:
Thursday: We arrive soaking wet and a bit battered and bruised at dusk after battling endless squalls on our trip down from Deshaies. We forgo our usual arrival celebration Corona and go in search of Okolé, the boat our friends Luc and Anne and their three young children are on, who we haven’t seen since last November in the Canaries. They are indeed here and what a joyous reunion it is! We pop open a bottle of bubbly to celebrate our mutual successful crossings. (You may ask how long we’re going to celebrate that crossing? For the rest of our lives! Wouldn’t you?).
After our grueling day, we had planned to crash early, but are persuaded to join a group of cruisers going to a Basque restaurant to celebrate the birthday of Diane, a friend of Anne and Luc’s. We have no regrets as the food is good especially as I didn’t have to cook it or clean up afterwards and is so often the case with cruisers, the conversation flows easily and before the end of the evening we have made some new friends.
Not so pleasant, were the number of rats we spied lurking around the marina on our way home that night. Yeuch!
After our grueling day, we had planned to crash early, but are persuaded to join a group of cruisers going to a Basque restaurant to celebrate the birthday of Diane, a friend of Anne and Luc’s. We have no regrets as the food is good especially as I didn’t have to cook it or clean up afterwards and is so often the case with cruisers, the conversation flows easily and before the end of the evening we have made some new friends.
Not so pleasant, were the number of rats we spied lurking around the marina on our way home that night. Yeuch!
Friday: After being on the go for 10 days, the boat is in desperate need of a good scrub inside and out, not to mention the pile of laundry that is taking over the boat. Patrice is up early in search of a boulangerie, but with a whole new pontoon full of people to talk to this errand takes longer than my hunger pangs can bear and I need to rein him in at one point for breakfast.
First on our to do list this morning is to install some anti-rat funnels on our mooring lines made from cut-up water bottles (just praying they work... ). Then while I get a start on cleaning, Patrice heads out to run some errands. He’s on a mission to find a laundromat, the local Volvo agent to sort out a problem with the gearbox on our engine, the local Raymarine agent to inspect several electronic issues. someone competent to install our wifi booster (aka ‘Bad Boy’) properly and a car rental place.
Despite the tempting conversations on the dock, he’s been pretty efficient and by the end of the morning, he has booked a rental car from Saturday afternoon to Monday, the laundry has been delivered to a capable laundress and he has promises from all three agents to come and see about the work that needs to be done early next week.
First on our to do list this morning is to install some anti-rat funnels on our mooring lines made from cut-up water bottles (just praying they work... ). Then while I get a start on cleaning, Patrice heads out to run some errands. He’s on a mission to find a laundromat, the local Volvo agent to sort out a problem with the gearbox on our engine, the local Raymarine agent to inspect several electronic issues. someone competent to install our wifi booster (aka ‘Bad Boy’) properly and a car rental place.
Despite the tempting conversations on the dock, he’s been pretty efficient and by the end of the morning, he has booked a rental car from Saturday afternoon to Monday, the laundry has been delivered to a capable laundress and he has promises from all three agents to come and see about the work that needs to be done early next week.
Carrying the laundry is no chore for Patrice as it gives him another opportunity to go and chat with people on the dock. The rain which we experienced off and on all week was no deterrent,
That evening, we’ve been invited aboard Okolé for dinner and spend a delightful evening sharing much laughter and a few tears while recounting our respective Atlantic crossing experiences and marveling that we all made it across safely.
Saturday: Completing our chores is at the top of the agenda this morning as the boat needs to be made spic and span for guests. We finish just in time to welcome first a colleague of Patrice’s onboard for an aperitif who then kindly invites us to lunch at the nearby Coco Kafé, a charming restaurant with funky tropical style. We choose an excellent tuna tartare marinated in lime and ginger and crayfish in cocounut milk. Yum!
After lunch, we hurry back to the boat to meet some people from back home for tea. On our way down from Deshaies I remembered that Sylvie, a quilting friend, retired here with her husband Patrick. Thanks to an old e-mail I managed to track her down and it turns out they live in Deshaies--zut alors! We could’ve met up with them while we were there! Luckily, they have to drop someone off at the airport that afternoon so we invited them to swing by the marina before heading home. The time is much too short to catch up properly and as we discover many mutual interests, we make plans to meet up with them in 10 days time when we will stop in Deshaies again on our way back north.
Before we end the day, we collect our two day rental car which our good cruising friends Ann and Steve would surely dub an SdJ* due to its sorry state. Never mind, it works and more importantly will take us around the island for some exploring and a bit of shopping.
Sunday. Sunday is a declared day of rest aboard Taka Trois and I have a hankering for a beignet (doughnut) for breakfast. When we were here 16 years ago, we met a certain ‘Captain Beignet’ selling scrumptious freshly made doughnuts right on the beach at nearby St. Anne, so we fired up the rental car and headed that way. An hour later, after wandering up and down the beach, there is not a beignet in sight. No problem, we’re in France right? We find ourselves a patisserie and treat ourselves to a flaky croissant, island style, filled with sweet toasted coconut. Mmm mmm GOOD--who needs Captain Beignet!
Before we end the day, we collect our two day rental car which our good cruising friends Ann and Steve would surely dub an SdJ* due to its sorry state. Never mind, it works and more importantly will take us around the island for some exploring and a bit of shopping.
Sunday. Sunday is a declared day of rest aboard Taka Trois and I have a hankering for a beignet (doughnut) for breakfast. When we were here 16 years ago, we met a certain ‘Captain Beignet’ selling scrumptious freshly made doughnuts right on the beach at nearby St. Anne, so we fired up the rental car and headed that way. An hour later, after wandering up and down the beach, there is not a beignet in sight. No problem, we’re in France right? We find ourselves a patisserie and treat ourselves to a flaky croissant, island style, filled with sweet toasted coconut. Mmm mmm GOOD--who needs Captain Beignet!
From there we head to St. François at the southeast point of Grand Terre. We’ve been told that the coast is quite spectacular with secluded beaches and magnificent rock formations and spend the rest of the morning hiking around and climbing over said rocks while drinking in the magnificent scenery.
After all that exercise we’re famished, so we stop at the nearest beach bar on the way home which claims to be the home of ‘Le Roi de la Langouste’ (the king of lobster). Who needs Captain Beignet when there is a Lobster King right? The king himself turns out to be a bit of a grump and sadly his lobster is poorly cooked, but it’s cheap and fills the tummy. Isn't there some old saying about not trusting in captains and kings?
Looks good, but was in fact, under-cooked. We sent it back, which is probably why the king was grumpy with us, it came back over-cooked.
Because we are at the far end of the pontoon, walking back to the boat takes time as we have to run the gauntlet of cruisers on their boats along the way to give an account of our sight-seeing trip, where we ate and what, hear the latest news and greet new arrivals. We notice that that of the new arrivals is a boat from Caen, Patrice’s home town in France with two old guys aboard. These ‘old guys’ turn out to be ex-classmates of Patrice’s! So much for our perception of o
Before we get back to Taka Trois, Diane and Alexis of the yacht Beramtegi-gabe (now that’s a mouthful to say on the VHF) flag us down to extend an invitation for lasagna the next evening. We accept with pleasure and offer to bring brownies.
Monday: No sign of the Raymarine agent, but the Volvo engine expert arrives early and dives down into the engine room for a look. With a few hours left on the rental car, I have been looking forward to a much-needed morning off the boat on my own to do a bit of shopping. However, just I am preparing to leave the boat the Volvo guy announces that the boat needs to be hauled out AGAIN! There goes my morning out! Patrice takes one look at my downcast face and assures me that with the help of his new friends on the pontoon he can manage without me this time. I flee before he changes his mind, sending up a prayer that all will go well. It does and by early afternoon the problem is sorted and after my morning out, I return to the boat refreshed and in better spirits.
Dianne and Alexis’ lasagna dinner party has grown in numbers and as we have the bigger boat, we offer to host everyone aboard Taka Trois. We’re a merry bunch of seasoned sailors with lots of stories and jokes to share and the evening flies by all too quickly.
Before we get back to Taka Trois, Diane and Alexis of the yacht Beramtegi-gabe (now that’s a mouthful to say on the VHF) flag us down to extend an invitation for lasagna the next evening. We accept with pleasure and offer to bring brownies.
Monday: No sign of the Raymarine agent, but the Volvo engine expert arrives early and dives down into the engine room for a look. With a few hours left on the rental car, I have been looking forward to a much-needed morning off the boat on my own to do a bit of shopping. However, just I am preparing to leave the boat the Volvo guy announces that the boat needs to be hauled out AGAIN! There goes my morning out! Patrice takes one look at my downcast face and assures me that with the help of his new friends on the pontoon he can manage without me this time. I flee before he changes his mind, sending up a prayer that all will go well. It does and by early afternoon the problem is sorted and after my morning out, I return to the boat refreshed and in better spirits.
Dianne and Alexis’ lasagna dinner party has grown in numbers and as we have the bigger boat, we offer to host everyone aboard Taka Trois. We’re a merry bunch of seasoned sailors with lots of stories and jokes to share and the evening flies by all too quickly.
Tuesday: Still no sign of the Raymarine agent, but God has sent us an angel named John to install our Bad Boy. John is originally from Maine, now married to a lovely French lady and working here in the marina as a handyman and fishing expert among other things. This guy not only figures out how to install the wifi booster, but has ideas on how to sort out many of the items on our long to-do list of repairs, improvements and stuff. I am beside myself with joy as by the time he finishes working for us we tear up that list since every task on it is now completed! Thank you John!
Wednesday: Since the weather has improved a bit, several boats are leaving today. It is a tradition on a pontoon like this to gather and cast off the mooring lines of the departing vessel and wave good-bye. Amongst those leaving today is Beramtegi-gabe whose crew is sailing to nearby Marie-Galante, its final destination (for now) after years of restoration and many months at sea.
The skipper, Alexis and two friends salvaged this vessel from the mud flats in the Bay of Arcachon, France and spent 5 years renovating it before sailing it across the Atlantic this past year. Diane and Alexis, who have been living aboard for more than a half a year are a young couple and have jobs waiting for them in Marie-Galante, where his parents live 6 months of the year. Our farewell is just an au revoir as we hope to see them tomorrow when we go to Marie-Galante ourselves.
The skipper, Alexis and two friends salvaged this vessel from the mud flats in the Bay of Arcachon, France and spent 5 years renovating it before sailing it across the Atlantic this past year. Diane and Alexis, who have been living aboard for more than a half a year are a young couple and have jobs waiting for them in Marie-Galante, where his parents live 6 months of the year. Our farewell is just an au revoir as we hope to see them tomorrow when we go to Marie-Galante ourselves.
We’re delaying our departure by a day because the Raymarine agent has promised to come tomorrow morning and we believe him this time because Patrice called the big boss back in France who we met when we were in La Rochelle. Many people have learned the lesson that you don’t mess with Patrice because there is a good chance that he knows someone who can make your life miserable...
With an extra day and chores complete, we take John up on his offer to go for a hike along a river in Basse Terre, an unspoilt area where he likes to fish and relax. What joy to get off the boat for a few hours and soak up the lush green of this beautiful part of the island!
With an extra day and chores complete, we take John up on his offer to go for a hike along a river in Basse Terre, an unspoilt area where he likes to fish and relax. What joy to get off the boat for a few hours and soak up the lush green of this beautiful part of the island!
Thursday: Patrice arrives back at the boat this morning with our daily ration of fresh baguette and a big grin on his face saying, “come with me, I have a surprise for you.” The surprise is the arrival of Chao Lay with our sailing instructor, Alex, onboard from Grenada. Unfortunately he is just briefly stopping for provisions on his way to Antigua for race week, so there is only a little time to catch up and introduce him to Taka Trois.
With only a few hours to spare before our scheduled mid-day departure for the nearby island of Marie Galante, the heavens open up and the angels sing as the Raymarine expert finally makes his appearance and thankfully makes himself useful! While he’s doing his thing, I scoot over to the supermarket to pick up some provisions and by noon all is sorted and we’re ready to go. John, Anne and Luc, who we will next see back in France this summer (Anne is flying back to Paris with the children today and Luc will be sailing Okolé back with two buddies later this month), cast off our mooring lines and we’re off!
While we’ve loved being attached to land for a time, exploring a new place, meeting new people and being an active part of the cruising community, we also love heading out once again with new places to discover and people to meet. My favorite moment of sailing is just after the sails have been hoisted, the engine cut and the wind takes over...sheer bliss!
*SdJ=Shitbox du Jour
*SdJ=Shitbox du Jour
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